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It’s the best of all meals

by Molly Kincaid

There are only two occasions where it’s socially acceptable, and practically required, to indulge in your first libation of the day before noon. On holidays, you’re driven to chain-drink Bloody Marys to drown out Aunt Maude’s incessant nagging that “ladies shouldn’t wear such drab colors” or Uncle Mort’s dependably embarrassing inquisition, “Still single, eh?” The other occasion, Sunday brunch, requires no excuses.

And while Knoxville may be lacking as far as sensible civic policy, clean air, and drivers with their heads not shoved up their unmentionable orifices, it certainly is abundant in its vast array of brunch and breakfast offerings.

For a hip yet relaxed atmosphere and creative gourmet brunch option, head downtown or to the Cumberland Avenue strip. Sunspot is probably the forerunner when it comes to inventive dishes that change from Sunday to luscious Sunday. The omelets are stuffed with tantalizing combos like apples, roasted onion, brie, and chicken, while the pancakes rotate seasonally with fresh fruit varieties and are coupled with a lovin’ spoonful of cheesy grits. The breakfast burrito, stuffed with smashed potatoes and other ingredients, is also a winner. Get there early before they run out of mimosas.

Tomato Head is probably the most hoppin’ joint in town on Sundays. Arrive after noon and you may have to wait a few minutes for a table; take advantage by frolicking around historic Market Square. T-head may be staffed by an awing selection of Knoxville’s young, beautiful and artsy folk, but the families, couples, and groups of friends who flock here come for the food rather than the scenery. Point out your fave gourmet meats, veggies, and cheeses, and, voila, they’ll make a gorgeous omelet before your eyes at the omelet bar. Or sample one of the savory burritos, egg sandwiches, or variations on huevos rancheros (the mole sauce is heavenly). Though it’s notoriously vegetarian-friendly, Tomato Head’s bacon is the best-kept secret in town. Order a side of it, and crispy goodness will transport you into true brunch bliss.

While you may not be able to stand the sight of it if you partook in one too many IPA’s on Saturday night, the Downtown Grill and Brewery also has a superb brunch. With a focus on more traditional breakfast fare, DTG serves up favorites from quiche to killer steak and eggs. It all comes with a side of live jazz from the Josh Marcum Trio, making the brewery the perfect place to come with pals, treat yourself to a hair-of-the-dog screwdriver, and unwind.

Fear not, churchgoers and workaholics, for Sunday is not the only day to partake in brunch. The Bistro, a dark and cozy little place tucked into the historic Lamar House on Gay Street, serves a spectacular brunch on Saturdays. Though they have a menu of brunch choices, the quintessential Southern favorite is the fried catfish special with a side of buttery grits and a biscuit. Plus, the obliging bar staff concocts yummy Bloody Marys for only a buck each.

Harold’s on the 100th block is another Gay Street landmark with a faithfully attended Saturday breakfast. Its status as a kosher deli makes its bagel with lox and cream cheese a top choice. But I daresay there’s no topping their egg sandwich on a sesame bagel anywhere else in town. Plus, it’s open all week, excluding Sunday, for an authentic Reuben sandwich.

Of course, downtown is not the only place to get a great brunch in Knoxville. Italian Market and Grill features an endless buffet with breakfast and lunch fare plus omelet and waffle stations, prompting rave reviews from West Knoxvillians. Gourmet Market in Bearden kicks into breakfast gear on Saturday and Sundays with fabulous coffee, buttery baked delicacies, and specials like fruity pancakes and egg dishes. Line up early at the omelet station.

Copper Cellar has two locations on Cumberland Avenue and Kingston Pike that offer similar choices such as eggs benedict, quiche, and waffles. Though they lost a devoted swarm of lushes when they stopped offering all-you-can-drink champagne, they have plenty of other drink specials, and the crab bisque is unbeatable.

True breakfast addicts will prove their devotion by indulging more than once a week, sometimes rising early to get a tummy-full before work. There are plenty of family-owned diners around town perfect for a good ol’ eggs and bacon breakfast. Rankin Restaurant, a long-time favorite on Central Avenue, is famous for its biscuits—topped with gravy or jam; they’ll melt in your mouth. For friendly service, plenty of smoking tables, and awesome down-home breakfast and lunch, do not stop, do not pass go, and head straight for Amber Restaurant on Broadway. If you miss your mama’s cookin’ and lovin’, the folks at Amber will cheer you right up by calling you darlin’, keeping your coffee topped off, and doting on you if you clean your plate.

For downtowners, the best pre-work stop is Pete’s, which offers omelets with a variety of toppings, stacks of piping hotcakes, and plenty more. If you prefer to pick it up and take it with you, forgo Mickey D’s and opt for an egg and cheese biscuit or a sinfully monstrous chocolate chip muffin from Yesterday’s (formerly J. Scott’s) on Clinch Avenue. Everyone’s favorite lunchtime Mexican mecca, Tortilla Mac’s, also offers a spicier choice for the a.m.; their breakfast burrito is made with your choice of toppings and a little bit of love.

Sure, there’s always Cracker Barrel, but something about the “half restaurant, half store” just seems like selling out when it comes to the sacred ritual of brunch. If you’re strapped for cash, you can be in and out of Waffle House for under five bucks. But, should time and your wallet allow, take the opportunity to indulge in a leisurely brunch with friends, family, or just yourself. Knoxville’s got a lot of choices for every taste and whim.

December 30, 2004 • Vol. 14, No. 53 © 2004 Metro Pulse