Metro Pulse/Restaruant Rover/Ciao

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Ciao
5032 Whitaker Avenue (Homberg)
602-3583

by Connie Seuer

Since my first meal at Bogartz, when I rejoiced in the innovative, fine food, relaxed in the comfortably-chic atmosphere, and encountered my favorite waiter of all time, the restaurant and its chef and proprietor, Bruce Bogartz, have been getting my referrals. When I heard that Bogartz (the chef) was to open a new restaurant with Italian cuisine as its focus, the Italophile in me began to salivate. If my experiences at Bogartz were any indication of what a Tuscan-centered concept would present, my hopes could afford to be high.

But first, some explaining. Bogartz (the restaurant) still exists (whew!). Same location, same dynamic menu. Ciao is located right beside Bogartz. In fact, the restaurants are connected by an interior archway. Although there are two separate entrances and two separate dining rooms, there's only one kitchen. Consequently, patrons sitting on either side of the house—Bogartz or Ciao—can order from either menu. Bogartz still features inspired American fare that isn't afraid to dip into the low country or put a new take on regional standards. Ciao experiments with honest, Tuscan cuisine and offers four, full courses (in the right order, I might add) and dessert. It's a curious arrangement, but one that's got all the right elements to work.

Ciao features a welcome list of Italian wines, ranging in price from Andrew Jackson to Ben Franklin plus. We selected a simple bottle of A Mano Primitivo ($24) and embarked upon an evening of fine dining.

Our server promptly alerted us to the complimentary antipasti of marinated portobello mushroom, roasted red pepper, roasted olives, pesto, focaccia, and seasoned olive oil. But as good as the gratis treat is, I advise against filling up before trying beginning plates. The antipasti from the menu are genuine comparisons to what one might find on an Italian table.

The prosciutto wrapped scallop ($5) or the ribbolito ($5), a ragout of white beans, sausage, bread, Parmesan, and vegetables, are sure selections, but our picks of the night were the fried smelt ($5) and the arancini ($5). The smelt comes lightly breaded with bone in place. Served with a charming anchovy mayonnaise, it won Heinrich's heart. But the arancini, small risotto fritters served with fresh mozzarella (some of the best we've had in town) and an olive tapanade, was my favor taker. Hot, oozy rich cheese, and well accented by the salty tapanade, the arancini is an excellent starter for a chilly winter night and an easy plate to share with your date.

Our prima piatta, the pasta course, found Heinrich diving into a very rich plate of sweet potato gnocchi ($8), served with a sauce of homemade buffalo sausage, wild mushrooms, and sherry brown butter. The tastes were spectacular together, especially the sweetness of the gnocchi and the salty, gaminess of the sausage. But as noted above, this is a heavy dish that may be best enjoyed when shared. It worked out nicely that I ordered a light, vegetarian pasta, fusilli a la funghi ($8), to balance the decadent gnocchi. Our forks passed back and forth between pasta bowls more times than I can count. The fussili expertly combined wild mushrooms with artichoke hearts and the earthy brightness of threaded leeks, all brought to life by a liberal dose of that liquid gold—truffle oil.

For the third course, zuppa or insalata, Heinrich dipped into a plentiful bowl of the wedding soup ($6) and I gardened with the field green salad ($7). The soup was wonderfully traditional, with a well-rounded stock base, white beans, and hearty, veal meatballs. A leaf of fresh bok choy garnished the top of the soup, a not so Italian touch that didn't hurt a bit. The field green salad was sweeter than anticipated due to a candied citrus peel accompanying the greens, the fennel and the truffled honey vinaigrette. But don't misinterpret...it was a refreshing take on eating one's vegetables.

The current Ciao menu (it changes seasonally with the next version due around March) is full of happy choices. Quail, pheasant, fish, seafood, veal, steak...it's all there. The seared black bass with polenta cake ($24) was cooked to perfection—crisp and flavor-intense on the outside, flaking and moist inside. The entrée recommended by our server was the veal osso bucco ($29). Thankfully, we took the hint. It proved to be a feast (it was easily twice the size of the well-portioned sea bass) and so tender, so juicy that it would have been a crying shame if I'd passed this life without a taste of it. A rich foundation of soft polenta accompanied the hefty, specialty, as well as a thoughtful garnish of pickled root vegetables.

Although the classic panna cotta would have been the truly Italian dolce, Heinrich and I were both drawn to the flourless chocolate cake ($6.50), served with poached apricots, a house-made specialty ice cream and a dark chocolate sauce. It did not disappoint.

For a few years now, Bogartz has been a dependable wow, with high standards and seemingly endless energy and creativity from its namesake chef. Knoxville is fortunate to receive Ciao, a new player in the coterie of fine dining in Knoxville. Ciao, mi amici...that's an order.