Metro Pulse/Restaruant Rover/Tomato Head

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Tomato Head
12 Market Square
637-4067

by Connie Seuer

I moved to Knoxville back in early 1992, and soon thereafter entered into a long-term relationship that I'm still enjoying today. Not with a beau, mind you, but with a restaurant that is much more to most than simply a place to eat. Heinrich was there on its first day of business, and although his longhaired, bohemian sensibilities enamored him with the place, most downtownies of the day were standoffish. But after more than a decade, Tomato Head has grown into an institution.

Sure, I've eaten there (just about every menu item at some point over the years). I've also worked, played and learned there. Inside its cozy, exposed brick and plaster walls, I've formed friendships, enjoyed acquaintances, established business partnerships, and said tearful good-byes. I met my sweet hub Heinrich there, and I count the owners, Mahasti Vafaie and Scott Partin, among my closest friends. Framing it all is the savory smell of garlic, and the irresistible aroma of fresh, made-each-morning bread. To say the least, my fondness for the place runs deep.

So why review a restaurant with such a venerable reputation, a place that has certainly been reviewed before? As committed as the restaurant is to real, good, fresh food, it is equally committed to trying new things. Although mainstays do just that—they stay—the menu grows more comprehensive with each year. Specials turn into favorites that then become standards. A BYOW policy grew to include a short wine list, then blossomed into flights and regular tastings. But the biggest change over the past year is most certainly the undertaking of Sunday brunch, held from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Previously known as the one day of rest for the establishment, Sunday is now an entirely new pleasure.

Let me recommend that your first order of business be to secure a cinnamon roll ($1.75). Served deliciously warm, these house-made, hand rolled pastries are dense, sweet, and satisfying.

If it were just the standard brunch, make your own omelets and the like, then the addition wouldn't be so significant. But when it comes to food, the Head doesn't do anything half-assed. In addition to a brunch that covers the basics—fresh orange juice, an omelet bar, French toast, mimosas, scratch-made biscuits, and plenty of bacon—it also boldly treads into more innovative territory, south of the border.

Heinrich always has, and always will have, a soft spot for huevos rancheros. From a smattering of variations on the theme, each with its own personable name—Pilar (the most basic build of eggs, cheese, and black beans), Zipolite (a vegetarian creation with roasted portabello mushrooms), Tia (more on her in a moment), and Rosita (including chicken and roasted potatoes)—Heinrich selected the Tia ($5.95). Beginning with a foundation of corn tortillas, the Tia is topped with homemade black beans; a garnet mole rich with standouts of cinnamon and chile; scrambled eggs, cheese, bacon, and roasted red onion, all complemented by the refreshing coolness of tomato salsa (again, house-made) and crema. Presentation? It's the kind of order that you see delivered to a neighboring table and beguiles you to say, "I'll have what they're having."

I took a turn with one of the breakfast burritos, which include black beans, spinach, scrambled eggs and a similar roll call of good options: Arturo (with roasted onions and portabellos), Emilio, and Diego (the burrito with bacon) The Emilio ($6.25) was my choice, a vegetarian wrap with an abundance of protein and iron. Spinach, black beans, scrambled eggs, baked tofu, and melting cheddar cheese arrive rolled neatly in a toasty-crisp tortilla. A side of tomato salsa sets off the whole affair, and a couple of pieces of seasonal fruit (banana and orange on this day) provide a naturally sweet finish. Size-wise, none of the Tomato Head burritos skimp.

True to its pizza tradition, the T-head brunch also offers unique breakfast pizzas. The most basic is the renowned thin, crisp-yet-chewy crust, with scrambled eggs and cheese in place of sauce ($5.50, 9-inch/$8.50, 14-inch). You can add toppings of your choice (to name just a few...capers, broccoli, or fresh spinach for a frittata or omelet, to chicken, Andouille sausage, or smoked salmon for a more breakfast casserole, Cajun, or kosher approach). Heinrich and I both favor one extra topping—bacon. ($6.75, 9-inch/$11.00, 14-inch). It may sound odd or different, and different it is, but the differences are all good.

Egg sandwiches ($5.75) round out the brunch, and have become the favorite of many regular brunchers. From the sharp and salty Hank, constructed with eggs, cheese, bacon, feta cheese, tomatoes, and Kalamata olives to the simple Clyde (that's eggs, bacon, lettuce, tomato, and smoked cheddar).

I think one of the distinguishing characteristics of the Tomato Head is its willingness to warm up to something, to give it a try, tinker with it and tweak it, and then embark on a new chapter in its history. And brunch is just this, another sweet evolution of tried and true offerings combined with unique signature items that make the meal one to remember. What a fine way to say hello to the day.