Metro Pulse/Restaruant Rover/Soho Café

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Soho Café
Western Plaza
766-0188

by Connie Seuer

I confess. I'm a sucker for good graphic design. Show me a well-styled logo, Web site, or ad campaign, and I'm immediately registering the emotional response desired by the creative designer. But if there's nothing behind that good design, say, the design says "well-groomed" or "innovative fun," but instead I find "cheap-slop" or "tired ennui," I'm outta there. Good design will only take a venture so far. Like the Wizard of Oz, the curtain will, inevitably, be drawn aside.

So imagine my reaction when, as I was strolling through Western Plaza, I discovered the Soho Café. Immediately, my design-detector sounded bells. Although it is still under the same ownership, this is not the same little China Noodle place that was here a few months ago. (That said, those who simply hanker for that delicious takeout that was previously available should not shudder—takeout is still available.)

Soho Café has attractive outdoor seating, it has a bold logo and sign, it has a completely renovated, low-lit dining room. Where once there was Muzak, there is now atmospheria. Where there was one server, now there are at least four, each clad in trim, black clothes and exhibiting well-trained tableside manner. I picked up a paper menu to peruse at home and called Heinrich to let him know we'd be eating out that night.

We opted for the outdoor seating to enjoy some of this splendid, no-temperature autumn weather. The menu is not a wholesale change from what was offered by the previous place, but it has been altered in a few very smart ways. Cosmetically speaking, you'll notice the improved print design, with richer paper stock, cleaner type placement, and fewer menu items. That's right, fewer, having skimmed the best from the rest.

You'll also find the addition of wine, sake, and champagne joining the expected beer list. A small bar just inside the door could make a unique choice for grabbing a stem of vino.

To start things off, Heinrich selected the basil rolls ($3.50)—taught wraps of lettuce, shrimp, basil, and rice noodles presented on a luminous, aquamarine ceramic plate. He took to the ample pool of peanut and tamarind sauce without skipping a beat, but to me, it seemed excessive, somehow out of synch with the rest of the plate's presentation and preparation. The classic tom yum soup ($3) however, served with a shallow dish of fried wonton crisps, was the perfect beginning. The texture of the mushrooms, floating in the traditional, tangy broth was just right. Its lemongrass, cilantro, and lime sourness made me both pucker and smile.

After the fragrant and charming use of basil in the appetizer rolls, the Soho basil ($12.95) was tempting. It's listed as one of the restaurant's specialties, combining shrimp, squid, and scallops with basil, peppers, onions, carrots, ginger, and hot chili. But I was too quickly wooed by one of my favorite Thai dishes, Panang curry. Soho's version is Bangkok Panang chicken ($8.95) and is a light, spicy creation of thinly sliced red and green peppers, onions, coconut milk, basil, and juicy bobs of chicken.

Heinrich's entrée, orange peel beef ($10.95) was the predictable breaded and fried flank steak. But where other takes on this standard tend to over-fry and pay only visual tribute to the orange, Soho takes a lighter hand with breading and oil and fully explores the allure of citrus. Go Soho. And the steamed broccoli, served as the dish's base, was fresh and plentiful.

I was ready to try the Ginger Ice Cream ($3.95) but alas, it was not yet available. Thus is the price one pays for patronizing a restaurant during its first week of operation. I encourage visitors to check on the availability of this interesting treat and give it a try if there's some to be had.

While enjoying ourselves outside, numerous cars drove right up to the seating area and stopped just to stare. This is a great omen for the Soho Café—people are interested—but it can make a diner feel as though she is in a fishbowl. For goodness sake, people, don't cruise and spoil the evening for those dining. I suspect you're staring at the new look, the new design of the place and wondering if the attraction is only skin deep. I have pulled the curtain aside, and the Wizard is kind and good. Park your dang car and come inside.