Metro Pulse/Restaruant Rover/Miss Olivia's Table

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Miss Olivia's Table
1108 West Broadway
Maryville
983-7711

by Connie Seuer

The venerable sandwich takes many forms: the mile-high Dagwood, the petite cocktail bite, the open-faced mess-maker, the ubiquitous wrap...oh, the list goes on and on. There's no use in trying to compare and contrast each kind of sandwich. They all have their own merits when prepared to their respective perfection. And speaking of respective perfection: if you find yourself hankering for a just-so, mother-touched sandwich when in the Maryville vicinity, there's a new-ish lunch spot that's got your plate.

Miss Olivia's Table is the opposite of those toothy, shoulder-pad, Power Lunch spots. The ones with low light and heavily upholstered banquettes that make it even harder to be discreet while trying to scan the room to see who's who. Antithetically positioned is Miss Olivia's, where the food is simple and straightforward—sandwiches, salads, and soups for practical weekday lunches. Combine this with a truly inviting, and relaxing atmosphere, and you've got a place that appeals to all who buy their lunch at the noon hour—working men and women, single diners, lawyers, doctors, retirees, students, travelers, families, and yes, even those ladies who lunch.

Miss Olivia's Table occupies a quaint, restored historical house with a small front porch, an interior sitting room, and a cozy dining area that simply glows. Sunlight streams into the space through several large windows, illuminating the white linen table cloths, the natural white walls and conveying homey warmth to the planks of hardwood.

On my first visit, I had the BLT ($3.95/half $2.49). It arrived just as I would have prepared it myself—neatly layered bacon, lettuce, and tomato held together by two perfectly toasted pieces of bread. The common little sandwich was satisfying, without question, but its come-with stole the show. I experienced what surely are a Miss Olivia signature and perhaps the most memorable item on the menu—homemade potato chips. These things are addictive: all fresh potato, sliced as thin as phyllo, and as salty, crispy, and ephemeral as any master chef could create. If the atmosphere and the tasty sandwiches don't bring you back, the chippies will. You can order a solo side of 'em for $1.25. Worth every penny, I tell you. Every penny.

A second visit found my plate occupied by the chicken salad on sourdough ($4.95/half $2.89). Most folks have their own special way of making this standard sandwich stuffer. Mama Seuer, for example, swears by her "chicken party pie"—chock with toasted pecans, celery, and for a sweet kick and good luck, pineapple. (Her allegiance to the recipe is warranted, as the Sunday afternoon dish successfully wooed three handsome sons-in-law.) Miss Olivia's version takes a different approach, veering from the sweet route and ventures into vinegary relish and finely diced raw onion. Complemented by those melt-in-the-mouth potato chips, it's another satisfying and modest lunch to be enjoyed.

My most recent experience at the Table led me to order the club sandwich ($6.95), your basic structure of thinly sliced ham and turkey with bacon, Swiss and cheddar cheese, lettuce and tomato on toasty sourdough. I would complain about the mayonnaise but for two reasons—it was my fault for not asking them to hold the mayo, and the sandwich maker included only a slight shmear of mayonnaise instead of the unappealing glop usually found on sandwiches in this region. The club was the best sandwich I've eaten at the Table and so large I had an entire half left over. The only down note came with my dining companion's sandwich, the ham & Swiss on rye ($4.95/half $2.89). Served without lettuce or tomato, it was a tad too dry for her liking.

Vegetarians are somewhat out of luck if trying to order directly from the menu. I recommend requesting a special build (lettuce, cheese, and tomato anyone?) or head for the salads ($4.95 - $6.95). Also vegetarian-approved is the Table's version of the Southern dieter's plate—cottage cheese with peach halves, pears, and pineapple ($4.95).

When the time rolls around for sweets, don't let a need to rush back to the office keep you from partaking. My recent favorite is the lemon cake ($2.50)—creamy, sweet and sour icing adorning an ultra-moist, butter-rich lemon cake. It exhibited a magnetic pull on my fork.

I keep coming back to the same adjective when I try to describe Miss Olivia's Table—simple. From the décor to the food to the personality of the place, it's simple, and simply good. Sometimes a nice white plate, a smiling face, some sunshine, and a tidy and tasty meal like your mama made is all ya need.