Metro Pulse/Restaruant Rover/Giant Panda

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Giant Panda
6400 Kingston Pike
766-0403

by Connie Seuer

When I passed the erstwhile Copeland's location and saw its signs once again illuminated, I was intrigued with what new endeavor might have taken on the large dining room and kitchen. And as I wove closer, the sign becoming legible, I was disappointed to read Giant Panda, Chinese Restaurant.

Why did this dash my excitement? Because I committed the crime of assumption, that's why. Just from the name, I assumed that it would be a middle-of-the-road Chinese restaurant with more emphasis on quantity than quality. I assumed that it would be one of those mondo-buffet deals that have more stock in Sterno than rice. I assumed it would use MSG and I assumed, because of its size, that it might even be a (shudder) chain.

After being greeted by a low-lit interior and a dining area that, despite its obvious size, still maintained a good degree of intimacy, the menu put to rest all of my asinine assumptions. The restaurant began back in 1993 as a small thing in North Dakota. It grew. Life was good. In 2001, one of the owners, Dr. Max Cheng, took a faculty position at UT. The family relocated. Lisa Li reopened the Giant Panda here in K-town. There's an up-front policy of NO MSG in anything and there's not a buffet line in sight. The rest, you could say, is history to be written.

We spotted some of the regular suspects in the list of hot appetizers, such as one of Heinrich's faves, crab Rangoon ($4.95). The fried outer wonton was wound attractively, reminding me of an origami swan, holding in its body a creamy, well-blended filling of rich cream cheese and crab. Served with an above-average sweet and sour sauce, these appetizers were polished off post-haste. You'll not find the requisite egg roll on this line up, but if a roll is what you're wanting, you can pick from spicy lettuce wraps ($6.95), spring rolls ($3.50) or follow our lead and try the summer rolls ($5.95). Tasty stir fried chicken accompanies the standard shrimp inside these tasty wonders, along with rice noodles and brilliantly fresh sprigs of cilantro. Dipped into or drizzled with a sesame and soy-based fish sauce, these rice-wrapped summer rolls are filling and refreshing.

Standing out from the Cold Appetizers list was an oxymoron that we couldn't resist—vegetarian duck ($6.50). Indeed, it was about the size of a duck breast, but forming this shape were innumerable layers of phyllo-thin tofu. Encased in this curious creation was a loose, lush dice of black mushrooms—slightly chewy, naturally juicy, and marvelously earthy in flavor. The entire "duck" was, to our surprise, gently sweet, with hints of cinnamon and soy and salt lacing the dish. And while I would not say that it tastes like the bird, I will say that it tastes like something Heinrich and I will be sharing on future occasions.

When it came to our entrees we decided to test Giant Panda's take on the traditional. Heinrich's orange beef ($14.95) was... hmm, how can I put this... absolutely delicious. Its standard viscous sauce was made light by numerous curls of citrus peel and brought to transcendence by a prudent chef's dole of chili peppers. Held by this cautiously spicy, smartly fruity sauce are large, fried strips of beef that uphold their crisp exteriors and play nicely with the accompanying, steamed white rice.

For me, I took on the Kung Pao chicken ($9.95), which overwhelmed my expectations for spice, for chicken, and for the true test of a Chinese restaurant—the water chestnut. I've long believed that water chestnuts are the filler of Chinese food. Would Giant Panda bulk up the Kung Pao with water chestnuts, leaving room only for small amounts of tasty chicken and vegetables? Hell no! Giant Panda presented an abundant platter of petit bites of chicken, peanuts, zucchini, celery, and red peppers all fueled by powerful red chilis. This dish was marked "spicy," and they twarn't foolin'. I probably downed a gallon of water while enjoying my Kung Pao's pow. Luckily, Giant Panda will happily dial any dish's spice level to your liking. All ya gotta do is ask.

And here's something... pairing wine with Chinese food has, for me, never been a confident exercise. Thankfully, Giant Panda takes out some of the guesswork by offering pairing suggestions for each of its fourteen chef specialties. Regardless, Heinrich elected to go with a simple Rolling Rock ($3.50).

"You will take chance in something in near future," was all my fortune cookie had to say. Which left me with a distinct plan of action: If the chance ahead is anything like the chance taken on Giant Panda, I'll be placing a much higher bet.