Metro Pulse/Restaruant Rover/Up the Creek

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Up the Creek
352 Fountain View Circle, Alcoa
977-4244

by Connie Seuer

As summer cools to a slow simmer and the brassy sheen of autumn filters into the afternoon light, it's easy to let my thoughts drift to the mountains. These days are some of the most perfect ones we get, and day trips to the Smokies are one of the best ways to experience them to the fullest. Hiking, fly-fishing, camping, cycling, there's so much to do, and most of it makes for a hefty appetite. But seasons past have offered slim pickins—peanut butter and crackers from a gas station, greasy burgers and fries from a roadside shack, or the inevitable pancake house. Boiled peanuts being the exception, dine-out options weren't an adequate reward for a day's outdoor adventures.

If you enter and exit the Park via Townsend (Alcoa Highway to 321), there's a new place well worth checking out for a growling stomach. One of a handful of establishments in an island of hotels, banks, and restaurants found just before McGhee Tyson Airport, Up the Creek is the third incarnation for its location. What began as an Uncle Bud's Catfish became The Santa Fe Cattle Company, but the "third time's a charm" rule definitely applies. Up the Creek, a friendly, "fish camp" joint, was filled to the gills last Sunday night, and by the looks of the crowd, the Creek is now a regular stop on several weekend agendas.

I'd ordered fried green tomatoes ($3.99) before we were even seated. I love the things and suspected they'd serve as a decent bellwether. The six, large slices, rubbed with mustard and hand-breaded, were a very pleasing omen. When combined with the mild and slightly sweet tomatillo salsa, they were the South embodied. Heinrich, tomato-phobe that he is, snubbed my selection and ordered his own basket of hushpuppies ($1.49) and a Rolling Rock ($2.75). The pups were simple little poppers, not too greasy, but they longed for a side of honey-butter.

As we nibbled away at appetizers, talking about the week past and the week ahead, I was surprised at how The Creek managed itself. Although the restaurant was very full, it never felt crowded. It was bustling, but ambient noise didn't overpower our table. The staff, our waiter included, was genuinely congenial and at the ready. And that's no fish story.

The Caesar salad, with grilled salmon ($7.49) was, to my shock, not overdressed, and the salmon, albeit a bit dry, was very flavorful. This plentiful salad could have easily served as my dinner, but I yearned for a small order of fried clam strips ($6.99). Up the Creek makes a big deal out of its hand-breading, but the fellow in charge of it went overboard on this particular item. They were so laden that the breading fell away by the time fork reached mouth. Over-breading aside, Heinrich and I both enjoyed the strips. And although the small serving came with a side of french fries, coleslaw, and a couple of hush puppies, they all seemed superfluous to the seafood.

Heinrich, trying to stick to the lighter side of the menu (yeah right, then what was that basket of hushpuppies about and get your fork outta my clam strips!) enjoyed the grilled garlic scallops ($11.99). Lightly brushed with garlic butter, the scallops were far better than your average restaurant's run at grilling seafood. Yes, they were slightly overdone, but honestly, in a chain restaurant, is that extra minute on the grill really a bad thing? And as for the scallops' side of garlic smashed potatoes, they were starchy goodness above the mean.

Two other entrees deserve attention: the Jim Beam salmon ($12.99) and the classic Cape Cod fish & chips ($10.99). I'm a gal that likes her whiskey, and this Atlantic salmon filet is marinated and basted in genuine JB. Yes, you can taste it, and yes, it tastes good. Add a well-diced relish of grilled peppers and onions and it's a darn nice meal. Conversely, the fish & chips, for such a standard item, were disappointing. Cod's a mild fish to start with, and a liberal spout of malt vinegar did improve things, but lacking a salt-seasoned breading, it just wasn't the pub-happy plate we'd expected.

A Key Lime goblet ($4.99) was the contextually pertinent choice for dessert, but the cobbler of the day ($4.99) sounded awfully good, too. For the social good, we ordered both. Up the Creek's system of serving dessert in large glass goblets worked nicely for the refrigerated Key Lime: our long teaspoons dove neatly into the layers of tart, palate-cleansing Key Lime filling, crunchy graham-cracker crust, and over-the-top whipped cream. But the goblet of apple cobbler was a bit trickier. The hot cobbler quickly melted the vanilla-bean ice cream, making its good taste (though a bit heavy on nutmeg) a mite drippy to share.

Despite the unflattering facts—Up the Creek being a chain with three of its kind in Georgia and more slated to open in Knoxville, the Tri-Cities, and Alabama—I was truly happy to find the place. Next time we're coming down from the mountain, ravenous from taking in the great outdoors, paddle or no paddle, we're headed Up the Creek.