Metro Pulse/Restaruant Rover/Takeout

New China Town, 2619 Chapman Hwy., 577-0594
Eva's To Go, 5211 Kingston Pike, 558-8573
Pit Stop Barbecue, Corner of Washington Pike and Whittle Springs, 524-1929

by Ally Carte

If the transition from spring into summer is marked by ever-lazier days spent loitering in lawn chairs toasting the languorous afternoons with mint juleps and grilled burgers, then the progression from summer into fall is its polar opposite. As the weather cools off, we heat up—hopping from tailgate party to after-school function. And, lest we forget, the holidays, with all of their wonderful fast-forward frenzies, lurk just around the bend.

While I have the desire to both cook inspired meals and to visit the restaurants of local chefs who do the same (with more panache—granted), I don't have the time. But rather than pop by the local burger in a box, I try to find great, indigenous take-out places that are on the route to wherever I'm going.

The idea of Chinese take-away is as old as the cuisine's arrival in the strip malls of America. Something about rice and veggies and sauce (with requisite little deep-fried nibbles like egg rolls) lend themselves to being packed up and carried home. One of the best stops around for this ethnic cuisine is New China Town, which is conveniently located on Chapman Highway, wedged in the same plaza with Disc Exchange, Outdoor Outfitters and the Book Eddy. The dining room leaves a bit to be desired, atmosphere-wise. It's functional, sure, but not exactly pleasing, which makes it perfect for take-out.

New China Town's offerings aren't that much different from what you'd expect. Stand-bys like sweet sesame chicken ($7.95) ride alongside beef with broccoli ($5.95), mu shu pork ($6.50) and vegetable lo mein ($5.95). Some unusual dishes do lurk on the menu (like the spicy shredded pork Szechwan style ($5.95)) and the kitchen is willing to try to cook almost anything that you can describe.

But the offerings are not what make New China Town such a great place for fast food. Two huge things work in its favor: 1) every dish is expertly cooked and is as fine an example of Americanized Chinese that you'll find in town and, 2) its location makes it perfect for shopping while you wait for your meal to be ready. Pick up the new Alison Krauss, browse through old novels, or purchase a Nalgene bottle. It's the perfect place to condense errands into one satisfying stop—and get an inexpensive (no dish is over $10) belly-filling meal.

For something a bit more upscale, head to Eva's To Go, which is now just west of and on the other side of the road from its old location in Homberg Place. It's a lovely chintz-swathed room in which to have a sit-down lunch of soup, or a meatloaf sandwich or creamy egg salad that are better than mom had the time to make.

But it's the grab-and-go options that make Eva's a mainstay. The sesame chicken—completely unrelated to the Chinese dish, FYI—with plum sauce ($8.50 for two) features delicate, breaded breasts and a spicy-sweet sauce that reheat well. The broccoli and cheddar quiche ($5.75) is full of both and bound together with just enough custard to make a hearty real-man's meal, especially when paired with the tangy black-eyed pea salad, where the tender beans mingle with diced onion, pepper, and cilantro.

Not to be passed up are Eva's desserts. Pungent, rich lemon squares compete with the marbled fudge brownies which are elbow-to-elbow with the divine sheet cakes. Get as many as you can carry. Also, Eva's has created some Tailgate specials—packages that take a meal from entree to sweet and are priced per head.

If you find yourself in North Knoxville (which yours truly does every dang day), head to the Pit Stop, the squat, white former garage plunked at the corner of Washington Pike and Whittle Springs Road. The odors that waft from the smoker parked in front of the place are often enough to cause traffic accidents—further proof that very little can top the smell of roasting meat.

Many flesh options can be had at the Stop. From ribs to chicken to chopped pork to burgers, the Pit Stop probably has what your 'cue heart is pining for—and will coat it in their smoky (almost too smoky for my tastes) sauce. Sides are your standard offerings like slaw and beans and are fine, really. A combo plate ($7.99) is big enough for two (although you might want to get a spare order of both sauce and side) and contains half a chicken, two ribs, and a generous scoop of chopped pork, which is perfect for piling onto a slice of white bread, topping with your own pickles and red onion slices, and devouring.

The Pit Stop is not the kind of place you'd want to linger to eat, mostly because there are no tables—just a counter, some coolers, and a picnic table outside. But take it home, open the styrofoam boxes, and you've got a no-fuss feast for these hectic days.